The short version of today’s Cevennes Stage 5 is that is rained most of the day.
Things cleared out overnight after Stage 4, but Phil had warned us last night the afternoon could be wet for Stage 5, so be ready and have our day bags stocked with whatever we needed to keep us warm. We would find out, we would need every bit of what we packed.
It was a chilly morning with some low valley fog with temps about 4 Celcius to start the ride off but we were right into a climb which warmed us up. We even soon climbed out of the fog and into blue skies and thought maybe last night’s weather forecast might be wrong. At the top of the first col, there were lots of smiles and attitudes were upbeat. Things were looking good.
First col of the day...
On the way to the next high point for the day, the signed route and garmin route did not match, so I elected to follow a hunch which turned out to be right for Col des Pradeaux. The way I chose added an extra 6 km and 200 m of vertical but the weather was cooperating so it was worth it.
From there it was on to Feed #1. The winds were picking up and skies were clouding over. It was looking ominous. On the way to the next col, it started to drizzle and then rain. This was about 65 km into the ride. Once at the col (Joanziecq), I switched to more water repellant gloves and was already wearing the gabba with a gilet. I’d soon need it. Once on the descent, it was full on rain and wind. I just went heads down for the next 40 km to get to lunch which was in a cafe. I tried to tuck low to keep my core out of the cold as temps were dropping too. Eventually I got to lunch and was soaked.
This would be one of the last photos of the day, the rain had moved in to stay
After pizza and a petit cafe, it was time to head back out. It was still raining and I was a little over 100 km into the ride. As we rode up and out of a valley, the rain lightened up, but as we climbed higher and into more open terrain, it was full on rain and wind again. Heads down was again the name of the game. At this point I was wearing my Rapha Hard Shell and had my winter tights on from the start, so I was generally warm. Diluvio gloves were on for the rest of the ride too.
Everyone this afternoon looked grim, the upbeat attitude from the morning had disappeared. Once on the main climb of the afternoon, it was rather quiet and tranquil at times, much better than the busier road we had been on to get there. Feed #3 soon arrived and I was happy to warm up with a cafe au lait in a warm cafe stop Phil had arranged. I tried to minimize my stop time and load up on calories. As the temps were dropping, I was burning energy not just pedaling but trying to keep warm.
Once out of the cafe, it was onto the last 50 km. Once I got into the open again, the winds were fierce and it was pouring now. Heavy rains were forecast this afternoon and it was exactly what we got. We had climbed above 1000 m at this point, so it was quite cold and I tried to think of every reason why I was here and having fun. It was hard to do at this point. So I resorted to shouting into the forest.
At a critical arrow to reach the last col, the direction was somewhat ambiguous at a three way intersection. I chose the wrong way and went down 5 km and even ran into a herd of cows on the road which was soon where I assessed I was heading the very wrong way. So back up I went. I got back on course and met some other riders at this point who had pondered the intersection choice too.
Eventually I made it to the top of the last col and braced for a 20 km descent on forest roads. We’d reached the Ardeche region, but signs were the only thing telling me that. Scenery was bleak at this point. Low clouds and rain were prominent.
I did get to the hotel and think I was in the shower for 20 minutes trying to warm up.
In all honesty, this was one of the harder; if not hardest; CCC days weather-wise. More than 6-7 hours in non-stop rain and wind. Everyone who faced today’s route and weather is a hero.
With my deviations I wound up near 210 km with more than 3500 m of climbing. Tomorrow looks brighter and we could use it.
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